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San Tomaso to San Pietro della Ienca

Distance: 50km

How does one say: the higher you climb, the harder you fall?

After the previous two amazing hiking days with plenty of highlights, today is a tough day. It already starts when I wake up to the sound of rain. A sound I dislike a lot in the morning, in a tent. Reluctantly, I pack my wet tent and leave my campspot. The rain makes me feel cold instantly. By the time I reach Amatrice, yet another village basically completely gone, I feel very uncomfortable. After a quick resupply in a temporary barrack, the sun quickly comes out as I walk a muddy, rough trail towards Lago di Compotosto. The first lake in 10 days! I can't resist and jump into the water before continuing my walk. The weather turns bad again. Along the road, I meet three straying dogs. Initially, they make me feel a bit uncomfortable as they are following me but I soon recognize they are really friendly. Once the weather goes from bad to worse, I find shelter in a ruin next to the road. The dogs join me and together we hold a who-looks-the-most-miserable-competion. Eventually, I carry on, leaving the dogs behind. I look back over my shoulder several times, secretly wish they'd follow me, as I really start to enjoy their company. In fact, it's this encounter was my today's highlight.

I think the weather can't get any worse. But it does. It pours. Heavy, heavy rain. I feel exhausted. It's just too much rain. A try to change my mindset. Seeing something good in the rain. It's not easy but it makes it a bit more bearable. 

Eventually, I reach a small settlement. I pitch my tent. I do it in front of the church. Probably highly illegal but I couldn't care less. 

It's still raining. My tent is barely coping with the water. From above and below. I really hope it will eventually stop. 

Poggio di Fonte Chiusa to San Tommaso

Distance: 40km

A cold night. Therefore, my sleep wasn't that good. 

I wake well before 04:00 and eventually get ready to leave. The walk is continuing as it ended yesterday: spectacular. After 3 hours I reach Castelluccio. A bit of a detour but worth every extra step.

While the village itself got mostly destroyed by an earthquake and thus is off-limits, the view down a massive flat area are breathtaking. And then there's the live webcam of Castelluccio. While I initially stand at the wrong place, too close to the camera, I eventually move into the picture and get spotted by some of my most trusted followers.

Since the cumulus are towering again, even earlier than yesterday, I keep on walking. Thunderstorm cells everywhere. Just as one comes very close, I enter the temporarily relocated village of Accumoli, where to my surprise, the Cafe is open. Inside I meet Francesco, a wonderful hiker and firefighter from Trento. He's doing a hike connecting different areas, all affected by earthquakes. As it turns out, we both are avgeeks and spend probably 2 hours talking about aircraft. It feels great to have a longer, deeper conversation with someone after hardly talking to anyone for over a week. By the time we say goodbye, the rain has stopped and I continue my hike. The last couple of kilometers are rough and the trail not always easy to find. Luckily, it's surprisingly well marked. Which I appreciate because due all the earthquake damage, the maps I am using are not always accurate.

Good places to pitch my tent are rare and before getting into populated areas again I pitch it just a short distance from a farm in the forest. The farm dog is barking and I have already spotted four boars. I'm not convinced I'm going to have a peaceful night. 

Colfiorito to Poggio di Fonte Chiusa

Distance: 40km

A barking dog wakes me up shortly after 3 in the morning. I close the window. Quiet. But I can't fall asleep again. Bugger. Instead of just lying around, I pack and hit the trail at around 05:30 on a chilly Monday morning. A bit of road walk (I follow the road a bit longer and join E1 a bit later) before I continue following grassy ridges again. Especially the second part of today is spectacular. Great trails, even better views with snow covered peaks now slowly appearing. 

Today, it is more up and down though. From 1200m down to 500m and up to 1400m again and then some more up and down. My body feels well and I cover the vertical meters without too much hassle.

What causes me some headache is the weather though. Cumulus clouds are towering quickly and soon enough I am surrounded by Cumulunimbus clouds. But I am lucky. First there's a big cell ahead of me. Thanks to the north easterly winds it gets blown away from me. Then there's one behind me, catching up quickly. Since I marked some sheltered spots on the map yesterday, I know it's not far anymore to one of them and decide to camp there despite only being 16:30. The next sheltered spot is 8 kilometers away. Too far to make it today and don't really feel like getting into storm in the middle of it.

I'll start early tomorrow again, trying to beat the thunderstorms.

But for now I made myself comfortable in my tent. The thunderstorm disappeared and all that was left of it were some rain drops. Nevertheless, it was the correct decision for me and in the end I am happy I didn't end up all miserable in the middle of a thunderstorm. 

Passo del Termini to Colfiorito

Distance: 20km

Rarely have I sleep so well in my tent. 1 only wake up once and therefore hit the trail well rested. It's a straightforward walk today. Not too many vertical meters and mostly along roads.

I am taking it slow, timing my arrival time in Colfiorito at 10:30 - the check-in time at the hotel. After some long, physically and mentally challenging days, I decided to treat myself with a hotel. To relax a bit, collecting my thoughts. And of course: take a shower. I'm not too picky when it comes to not washing myself for a couple of days but after 7 days in the heat, sweating like a bull and without any lake or river to wash myself in, I'm in desperate need of a shower.

Besides the mentioned things, I will resupply and plan my next couple of days (the Abruzzo mountains still look like off limits to me because of the snow). Also the weather is worrying me a bit as daily afternoon thunderstorms will make my trail life a bit harder. 

Other than that, there's really not much to here in Colfiorito other than just Dolce far niente without feeling guilty of missing out on something. 

Punta Sassopecoraro to Passo del Termini

Distance: 40km

It was very windy yesterday evening, when I pitched my tent. I was sure, the wind would decrease, once the sun sets. I was wrong. It kept rocking my tent throughout the night, making a good sleep impossible.

Not surprisingly, I wake up early. Tired from the noise of the wind I start packing. Quickly, as the wind chill is unpleasant.

Soon after I hit the trail, which starts with a steep climb up Monte Cucco. It's not on the E1 but despite adding some vertical meters, it is quicker than walking around. And the views: fantastic. However, I can only enjoy them for a couple of moments, before the clouds are engulfing the mountain. Without tracks nor markings, finding my way down is a bit tricky. Eventually, I make it and continue my way south. Markings are mostly non-existent and I have to rely on my phone. With a few exceptions, the tracks are generally in good condition. It's a continuous up and down and I am amazed with what my body can achieve.

Highlight of today: the walking along shallow, grassy ridges. In fact, they are so shallow it feels like on a high plateau. A bit like the stretch between the Nordkapp and Kautokeino in northern Norway. It's a spectacular walk through Alpine spring with millions of flowers in all different colors and sizes. It's a pleasure to walk and I wish it would never end. My plan camping up there gets literally blown away by the wind. So I make my way down, where I quickly find a spot for the night.

Tomorrow is a comparably short day to Colfiorito, where a hotel room with a hot shower is awaiting me. 

Monte Castellaccio to Punta Sassopecoraro

Distance: 45km

After yesterday's experience, I am a bit weary when it comes tracks leading nowhere. So today when, shortly after leaving my camp, a sign posts shows directly into the undergrowth, without any clear path visible, I decide on taking back roads instead today. Adds a bit of distance but it saves my nerves. Therefore, there's really not much to tell about today's hike. A mix of forest, farmland and small settlements. All of them looking run down a bit. While roadwalk means good progress, it's also hard on the body. I feel stiff, when I reach Scheggia. After 11 hours in the hot sun, I treat myself to an ice cream and refill 5 liters of water, before tackling the last climb, leading me into the Monte Cucco Regional Park. As I climb higher, the views become spectacular. I find myself a spot to camp. Not many suitable places but eventually I get lucky. It's windy though but after being on the trail for 13 hours, I walked enough. Enough water but too much wind to cook. Oh well, so a cold dinner it is. Anyway, the views easily make up for it. 

Bivacco Paolo Massi to Monte Castellaccio

Distance: 35km

As expected, I leave the bivacco well rested. It's a magnificent start into day, as I follow a beautiful track through Beech forest, wild garlic on both sides and great vistas every now and then. Soon enough though, the track gets steeper and overgrown. Hiking gets tiring. After Bocca Trabaria, the track eventually completely disappears in the forest. I check the map, GPS. Should I return to Bocca Trabaria and find another route or should I just push on, bush bashing. I decide for the latter, which in hindsight turns out to be one of the worst decisions taken on any of my hiking trips. Long story short, I end up in steep slope and dense bush, legs bloody, shorts torn. I make it out obviously, otherwise I wouldn't be writing this blog, but the experience broght me close to my limits. Especially mentally. Being completely lost or stuck in the bush. The ticks didn't help. 

Anyway, after being back on terra firma, I completely undress, check for ticks and need a couple of minutes to wind down. 

From there it's mostly forestry roads and farm tracks all the way. Muddy at first, firm and rocky later. The hike actually turns out rather nice. 

Best experience however, and a well needed motivation booster, was in at Bocca Serriola, where I an old man, sitting in front of Bar La Cima, approaches me with some beans. Despite not speaking the same language, we somehow manage to understand each other. As I am running out of water (water supply h really is challenging, with no water source for nearly 80km) I asked him if I could refill my 3  bottles. He leads me into the bar, fills them up and even hands me out a 4th 1.5l bottle. Very kind! 

While having a coffee and ice cream, I have a lovely chat with the (I guess) owner's son attending the bar.  Well rested, I continue my hike. The terrain is changing. Drier, less dense forrest. A welcome change. Since my feet start hurting and I shortly after a nice camp spot, I decide to call it a hiking day. An intense day. Which tought me a lesson. When in doubt, better retreat your steps. I know, easier said than done. But the next time I will be in such a situation, I will certainly remember this day. 

Passo Serra to Bivacco Paolo Massi

Distance: 35km 

Rain, thunder, rain... It was pouring down well into the night. While my tent kept me from getting soaked, all the water still left my stuff damp. Once the rain stopped, I got woken up by a "sniff, sniff, sniff" sound. Sounded like a cow eating grass. I'm quite sure it wasn't a cow. Probably a wild boar. Maybe a bear... I will never know. After a "shhhh" from my side, the animal ran away into the night. 

After this eventful but not very restful night, I hit the trail shortly before six. The trail is a mess, as I make my way down towards Verghereto. Fallen trees, mud, slippery clay. Rough. Not exactly what I like to start my day with. 2 hours and 5 kilometers later, I finally reach the bottom. From then onwards it's a mix of road and (more pleasant) tracks. I pass several villages, some busy, some completely deserted. 

After the rough start, I'm not able to fully recover for most of the day. I feel stiff, powerless. Still, I keep on going. Fredy, with whom I exchange a voice message, suggest me to stop for a coffee. While I initially dismiss the idea, I quickly change my mind as I pass by an inviting looking Café on Passo di Viamaggio. 

While enjoying an espresso and a piece of cake, I check for places to stay for the night. Google maps shows a bivacco not to far away and right along E1. Perfect! 

Well rested and motivated, I tackle the last 500 vertical meters climb to Monte dei Frati. After an initially quite rough and super steep part, the track through Beech forest becomes a pleasure to walk, I'm flying toward the top. 

Like yesterday evening, the sky looks grim again, smell of rain is in the air. Therefore, I'm delighted, when I spot the cute, little hut. 2 beds, a table. My favorite kind of hut. 

It's just before 1800. An early finish. Plenty of time to make myself comfortable and enjoy the hut. 

Fiera dei Poggi to Passo Serra

Distance: 40km

Right after finishing writing yesterday's blog and putting my phone away, I fell asleep. A deep, well needed sleep. A bear could have eaten my food supply and I wouldn't have noticed it.

Well rested, I pack my stuff and hit the trail just after 06:00. Weather wise another picture perfect hiking day. Also the tracks I walk on are an improvement compared to yesterday.

I spend the day mainly walking through beech forest. Yet, sometimes I can catch some nice views of the scenery around. To my surprise, I bump into several other hikers, who apparently also make use of the lovely weather.

Progress is good. While checking for ticks regularly slows me down, bending down to check is also a good stretching exercise. Well, at least I try to think that way. Stay positive...

For this stage, I don't really have a plan where to spend the night. Once past Badia Prataglia I start looking for suitable camp spots. A challenge! I keep on walking for more than 10 kilometers until I find something more or less suitable. Basically on the trail. Doesn't matter. There won't be anyone passing through. Just after I finish pitching my tent, it's starts dripping, then pouring. A massive thunderstorm out of nowhere. Good timing!  Unfortunately, no time for cooking dinner. 

The thunderstorm cell seems stationary right above me. Lightning and thunder keep making me flinch while writing this blog. Not exactly pleasant but not much I can do. It will pass. Eventually.