The Days After

55 days, a bit more than 2000 kilometers. All in sandals once more. That is section two of my E1 adventure in a nutshell. Distance wise more, time wise less than I was expecting. 


How come? Well, while the first three weeks are basically a continuation from last year, with plenty of pathless sections in rather mountainous terrain. At times navigation is challenging, especially during adverse weather conditions. Progress is good but 40 to 50 kilometer days are not really possible. The terrain soon gets flatter, completely different. The skiing town of Sälen, in fact, marks that very clear border, where I dive from mountains into the forest. Gone are the sweeping views, the river crossings, the exposure to the elements. The change is sudden. It takes me a while to get I used to the different environment. 


More road walk follows, my pace as a result getting higher, I don't need to take anymore rest days. Walking in the forest becomes like a blur. I can't recall each single day. They all are simply too similar. The vindskydds, a wonderful discovery, are becoming the highlight and motivation of my days. Usually located near a lake, I spend many night in them. Sheltered from the elements. I love them, have them mostly for myself. 


Without really noticing it, I am approaching Halmstad with big steps. It's only after Göteborg, still hiking in the forest, when I realize that I am actually really close to the finishing line. I don't feel like finishing though. It just doesn't feel right. If I finish now, all I remember is forest. And the location of Halmstad is bugging me a bit too. Somewhere along the coast. Nothing special about it.


But what can I do? Continuing south? I've got the time, I've got the energy. However, I just have to leave the forest, the ticks as soon as possible. So heading down south in the middle of Sweden is not sounding appealing at all as it's mostly through forest. It's only when I meet Julia, who draws my attention to Skåneleden, a coastal trail starting just south of Halmstad and following the coast for roughly 300 kilometers all the way to the south.


The discovery of the trail makes the decision to continue easy. It would add an additional element to my hike: the coast, something that I, as a landlocked Swiss, love. And it does not disappoint: Open views, plenty of beaches and seaside towns in warm late summer weather on nice trails are accompanying on my last week along the coast. It were these things I was missing and so, as getting closer to Smygehuk, I start feeling ready to finish this summer's hike at Sweden's southernmost point, where I arrive at exactly 100 trail days after starting in Nordkapp in 2020. 

Having crossed the Scandinavian peninsula all the way from top to bottom feels great, better or how should I say, a bit more epic than crossing it from Nordkapp to Halmstad as I initially planned. 


Yes, there was a lot of forest. Yes, there was a lot of road. While plenty of stretches might not have been as spectacular (or, let's be honest, as boring) as part one up there in the far north, it has still been a wonderful journey. Mostly great, warm weather, plenty of lakes to swim in, the fishing villages and beaches. And the vindskydds too, my personal highlights. And of course the locals, which were always friendly and helpful and sometimes went out of their way to assist me. It's the people that give my hike that special extra. In Norway as well as Sweden. 


Speaking of these countries: which one do I prefer (I'm don't put Finland into this evaluation as I only spent 3 days hiking there)? 


It's clearly Norway. It set the expectations for Sweden so high, leaving Sweden with basically no chance. On the one hand it's the open, more breathtaking landscape. The midnight sun. The clear, blue lakes, whos water you can drink with no need to worry. Towns and road are few and far between, which lead to that wonderful feeling of remoteness - solitude (out of 3500km I walked 3490 by myself as there wasn't anyone to hike with). A feeling that I somehow lost in the Swedish forests. I had to be careful that it didn't turn into loneliness. There were more people but at times I found it hard to connect with them. Something I never encountered in Norway, where I consider the people as more open. Many times I was told that people in the north are open, friendlier. And I can definitely agree. 


So what now? Good question! It's been roughly a week since I arrived in Smygehuk. I teamed up with Julia and continued on Skåneleden for 80 kilometers. It felt good to walk with some company. Now I'm on my way north again. The Koster Islands to be precise. I spotted it on the map during one of these long, bright nights up north and I thought I have to visit them. It's the only thing I planned on doing after my hike. Everything else, I will simply let it happen. I will see where my travels take me until I have to return to Switzerland in early October. 


Last but not least some stats for the first 100 days to be taken with a grain of salt:


Days: 100

Kilometers: 3500+ (I did not always count them exactly)
Average: 35km/day
Zero days: 5 (section 1: 4, section 2: 1)
Longest day: 65km
Shortest day: 8km
Hiking trail: 75%
Road (gravel, tar-sealed, forestry,...): 25%
Most challenging things: remoteness of the trail, ticks and mosquitoes
Rainy days: 10
Sunny days: 50
Cloudy days: 40
Nights in tent: 50
Nights in hut: 10
Nights in vindskydd: 30
Nights in hostel/airbnb: 8
Other nights (bivy, tower): 2
Mosquitoes killed: 3578
Ticks removed: 73
Bears seen: 0
Reindeer seen: 1255
Trees seen: 788'546'644
Hardest days: Day 24 (a wet one) Day 60 (a rocky one) 
Favorite days: Day 1 and 2 (walking in the midnight sun), Day 27 (Padjelanta), Day 95 (the beach)                             
Julia leading the way on Skåneleden
Julia leading the way on Skåneleden
65kg. The same. Always. Every day.
65kg. The same. Always. Every day.
Nötholmen Vindskydd
Nötholmen Vindskydd
Koster the way to Koster!
Koster the way to Koster!
Nord Koster
Nord Koster
One for Fredy
One for Fredy
Jelly fish to complete this seasons blog. Ha det bra!
Jelly fish to complete this seasons blog. Ha det bra!

Write a comment

Comments: 4
  • #1

    George Mills (Monday, 20 September 2021 05:17)

    Great record of an epic trip. Congratulations Sandor on a great achievement. The rest of Europe now awaits you

  • #2

    Rob (Monday, 20 September 2021 05:50)

    Tūmeke e hoa mā. Fantastic my friend.
    Congratulations. A job well done. As I may have mentioned to you before you "knocked the bastard off!". The words of a world famous kiwi, Sir Edmond Hillary. First man to climb Mt Everest in 1953. Aotearoa NZs greatest explorer. A man who went to a lot of places where no man had been before.
    In reading your final blog, I was impressed with how many reindeer you were able to count, but moreso, how many trees you encountered. �
    Very impressive.
    Are you sure a bear did not visit your camp while you were sleeping? Quite possibly so! You survived!!! Yayyy!
    It's been wonderful following you again.
    Even though we are half a world away, and in different time zones, and often, not even in the same day, and at opposite seasons, it has been like, 'being there with you'.
    Even though you may have been going to bed while we were getting up, to start our day. Regardless of time of day we have always hoped that you knew we were there.
    Kia ora Sandro. Thank you Sandro.
    Kia Kaha
    Kia Maia
    Kia Manawanui

    Be Strong
    Be Brave
    Be Steadfast (of big heart)

  • #3

    George Mills (Monday, 20 September 2021)

    Sorry I spelt you name incorrectly Sandro.

  • #4

    Fredy Koster (Tuesday, 21 September 2021 08:46)

    Thank you Sandro for the picture specially for me.
    For thoose who don't know me, I love to walk as much as possibly barefoot. ( By the way, Sandro loves it too). And the very nicest thing for me is to do it on a beach in the sand. Oh, how I miss it. So Sandro put the shoes and socks on only for me.

    The Jelly fish are beautiful but to me looking a little bit out of place.
    Ha det bra?

    Huh, very nice and impressive statistics you got and as George already said. You have met a lot of trees:)

    Many Greetings


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