Day 12: Hello Suomi

Nahpat to Kuonjarjoki Hut

Distance: 35km


Bad sleep, my stiff neck is killing me. I fear it only gets worse once I get going again. Therefore, I am somewhat reluctant to get up but eventually do, well have to...

It's a gorgeous morning. Not many mosquitoes, clear blue sky and quite warm. Strangely, or luckily I should say, the pain in my neck stops with the first few steps. I don't complain. 

45 minutes into the hike I pass by Somashytte, which would have been a nice place to stay. Another 15 minutes later I cross into Finland. The only thing that changes are the trail markings. Wodden poles instead of cairns. I prefer the former. Easier to spot.

Terrain gets rockier soon and many rock fields make progress somewhat slow at times.

At Pihtsusjärvi I encounter lots of people. Some of them on the way to Halti, Finland's highest mountain, which is in Norwegian territory (worth googling I think), some fishing. 

The track gets increasingly rough with more and more of rock hopping. The rocks are not big but need all my attention as a misstep would probably mean the sudden end of my hike. Mentally and physically exhausted I reach Meekonjärvi. Such a picturesque spot. Time for a well deserved, long break. 

Would the next section be similarly tiring as the previous one? Luckily not. It's more like an autobahn. Great hiking track, which fast forwards me to Kuonjarjoki, my overnight location. 

During these last 10 kilometers, winds are picking up quickly with dark, thick clouds looming over me. Hopefully, space in the hut is available tonight. 

Approaching the hut, several tents are scattered around it. Not looking good. 


Anxiously, I enter the hut, which is roughly half full. Sweet!

Cozy and warm the hut, which even has a gas stove. Luxury compared to what I have experienced in other countries. 

Now the rain can come... 

Border crossing. The first of numerous in the coming weeks
Border crossing. The first of numerous in the coming weeks
Again some lovely hiking trail
Again some lovely hiking trail
Rock field
Rock field
Great scenery and weather
Great scenery and weather
Another lake
Another lake
Another waterfall. With rainbow this time
Another waterfall. With rainbow this time
Anyone in for a swim?
Anyone in for a swim?
Hello, my first hut
Hello, my first hut

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Comments: 1
  • #1

    Fredy Koster (Monday, 17 August 2020 22:12)

    Really very beautiful land. wow.


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