Day 171: Contrasts

Po River to near Monte Ronzone

Distance: 45km

No thunderstorms but the heat once more made sleeping difficult.

Since the road is closed and I don't have to worry about cars I leave just before dawn, leaving the Po behind for good. It's hazy, humid and the visibility poor. The first half of the day is depressing walk. A mix of gasoline and the foul smell of rubbish fill the air. 

All together somehow reminds me of my vacation in Laos. In fact, I don't feel like being in Europe anymore.

I don't envy anyone who is living here. And it shows me once more how lucky I am to live in one of the most beautiful regions in Europe. 

Obviously, the people here have their reasons why they live here. Yet, it kind of makes me sad.

The trail, well, beside two random signs, it's not marked at all. Sometimes overgrown, sometimes hard to find. And plenty of roadwalk until Tortona, yet another sad looking town, which I cross as quickly as possible.

Then, the surrounding changes dramatically. The terrain gets hilly, the air clearer and drier and vineyards replace the rice paddies and corn fields.

It's harvesting season and the vineyards busy. Together with the sweeping views, there's a lot to see. Quite the contrast to the morning. A pleasant, most welcome change. The undulating terrain and yesterday's long hike make me finish early today. With a bit of luck I find a neat spot, overlooking the Po flat with the Western Alps clearly visible behind. As it's only 18:00 there is plenty of time to plan and organize the next few days, which mark the beginning of my Apennin adventure.