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The last 30 hours have been intense. Not intense in a hiking kind of way but because of a Lufthansa pilot strike affecting my journey back home. 

It all began while playing chess with (well rather while getting beaten by) my Couchsurfing friend's son, when an email arrived, informing me, my flight to Munich has been cancelled and that I would be rebooked as soon as possible... I did not pay too much attention, because I wanted to enjoy my last moments with my friends in Ulsan.

Once I caught a bus to Seoul. a four hour ride, I had a closer look at my cancelled booking. With hundreds of cancelled flights it would take longer to get rebooked and I should us an AI chat bot to check on alternatives.

That's where the mess began. While initially not offering me any alternatives, I then got the suggestion to rebook via Dubai, still an active war zone. A 30 hours journey, nearly two days after my scheduled flight. Unacceptable for me. They wouldn't let me talk to a human. 

So I kept on trying. Getting more ridiculous alternatives. Obviously, by then I have long arrived in Seoul. Despite the rebooking frustration, I still tried to enjoy my time there, climbing Namsan, enjoying a fantastic sunset together with a huge crowd, eating some more delicious food.

Back at the hostel, I couldn't really sleep and by 4:30 in the morning, I headed out for a run. The most productive thing I could do. I ran up Namsan. Down on the other side and up again as the sun rose. Not many people were out and about and I thoroughly enjoyed my run and the views.

Freshly showered, I struggle with the AI chat assistant some more then headed for the airport, without a valid booking. In the meantime, at least I got some acceptable alternative flights but they were not bookable.

As expected, the queue was long and slow moving. While in the queue, I struggled some more with the chat bot. I was already first in line, when I finally got an acceptable and bookable alternative. Yay!

While still waiting for my turn at the ticket counter, I booked it, checked in. Once everything was confirmed, I swiftly left the queue, probably getting some confused glances from the people behind me. 

With departure time only two hours away, I hopped into a bus to the other terminal, dropped my bags and headed for the gate. Once on board, I finally could relax. Very happy with the outcome, I looked down at South Korea slowly disappearing in the haze. 

Now, four hours into my 13 hours flight to Frankfurt with Asiana Airlines (which is so far, compared to Lufthansa, a much better experience), I feel like it's the perfect time to reflect. Three weeks in South Korea. On the little volcanic island called Jeju, Hallasan throning in the middle.

Walking a trail called the Jeju Olle. Olle - meaning driveway or path to a house. And it certainly felt a bit like this. Exploring the island on foot, at times off the beaten track, up close and personal, gave me an insight of the Jeju island live. At least I think so. Coming from a different culture, far away from South Korea, there are things I don't understand, never will. And that's okay. 

Jeju Olle, with the Ganse, the lazy Jeju pony, showing the path also stands for the slow approach of exploring the island. It was a new way for me. And while a bit challenging at times to slow down, embrace the moment, just idling, overall I think it had a positive effect on me; despite the trails often being not trail but rather road walking, the scenery nice but a far cry from the natural beauty of Switzerland, New Zealand or Norway, I felt good while walking. In fact I think I found the pleasure again in walking, that somehow vanished a bit over the last couple of months. Maybe it were the short days, no pressure to cover long distances, just living and walking in the here and now, focussing on the details, enjoying the food. The favourable weather helped, so did the lack of mosquitoes, ticks and other unwanted animals

Obviously, there's always the backside of the medal. 

I'll start with surveillance cameras: Everywhere. On the roads, parks, even along hiking trails. Rather than making feel safe and secure, the feeling of being under surveillance constantly was rather unpleasant. 

Rubbish: there are no public rubbish bins on Jeju. Which is fine for me. So are all the no littering signs. However, when I looked down at the beaches, the water or up into the farmland, there's rubbish everywhere. Plastic, fishing nets, you name it. An ugly, depressing sight and a stark contrast to all the no littering signs. Rendering them somewhat cynical.

Tinted windshields of the cars: basically all cars in South Korea have tinted windows - even the windshields. You can't see the driver, you can't make eye contact. As a walker, something I find a bit disturbing and unsafe. I'm still wondering how this can be legal. On a side note: usually I lake waving at the drivers. Not so in South Korea. Not so in Korea. Why should I, if I can't see them.

Special planning and architecture in general: spacial planning doesn't really seem to exist. Houses scattered everywhere, big wind turbines flanking a cafe and a hotel. It's just not that nice to look at. So are the buildings in general. A lot of concrete, little charm. Kilometers walking along fake wooden fence. Made out of concrete, painted to make them look like wood. It bothered me more than it probably should have. In the beginning at least. Until I changed my mindset and just see the positive side. The Koreans, in there own way, are somehow able to turn something rather ugly into something rather sweet. With lovely decorations and creative paintings and lots of dedication, the Jejuans turn a run down concrete structure or ugly seawall becomes a little piece of art. 

The people of Jeju. Overall, they seem happy, enjoying their life. I enjoy watching them. They also seemed to enjoy my company. A lot of talking along the way, even more food that was offered to me. I felt welcome in Jeju. Then there are all the Jeju Olle volunteers putting life into the the trail. The ladies at the information booths, the walking mates. I wasn't expecting so much volunteering, so much dedication. Always polite, always happy. Together with all the other Jejuans, they massively added to attractiveness of my walk.

Nonetheless, I don't think I would hike it again. While I thoroughly enjoyed it, it's not my natural habitat. The great outdoors, the views, the solitude. Things that I appreciated the longer the more during the walk. With the camping that I did on the trail, I compensated a little bit for an otherwise very civilized trail. It added to the overall positive impressions that I take home.

Home, sweet home, where I will be in a couple of hours. I'm somewhere over the Black Sea. 10 hours into my 13 hour flight. With my feet getting restless, I'm already starting to plot my next adventure in my head.

Daewangsan to Sinyang Port 

Distance: 10km

After saying goodbye to the sun, setting over the ocean yesterday, 11 hours later, the orange glowing ball is popping up again - again over the ocean. Somehow, this always feels a bit special, viewing sunset and the following sunrise over the ocean. From the same spot.

With a super short walking day ahead of me, I take my time. Sipping my coffee, doing some stretching, listening to an audiobook. Despite being so close to the harbor, not a single soul is passing 'my' pagoda. 

As usual, I get restless rather quickly nonetheless and eventually leave. Down to a beach, where I have another quick dip into the ocean. Mainly to wash myself. 

I climb another small hill, then head down to Sinyang Port, desperately trying to find a place to eat. Ghost town like, most places are shut. After a short backtrack, I get lucky, have a meal with plenty of side dishes. 

Oh and by the way, Sinyang is the end of the Chuja Island Trail, and in my case also the whole Jeju Olle Trail. All trails completed! Another one done and dusted. A slightly anticlimactic ending, but I can live with that very well.

With another 2 hours to 'kill', I head out one of the massive walls, protecting the harbor from the waves, where I'am currently writeling this blog.

Despite being part of the Jeju Olle Trail, Chuja was very different to Jeju Island. My first impression was 'quiet'. And that's how it stayed throughout my 3 days here. However, the other first impression I had "oh that looks like Great Barrier Island" is, like my faithful follower Geroge correctly recognized, didn't come true. It turned out to be quite different. People wise and also the scenery.

Ignoring the polluted coastline (I'll go into detail in my next post), the scenery was spectacular, the pebbly beaches, the hiking and camping spots really cool. I haven't met a lot of people. Those I met were mostly hikers. Locals were hardly anywhere to be seen and sticking to themselves. Overall a nice experience and a worthy ending of my Jeju Olle Trail adventure.

So what now? Everything is pretty much already planned and booked. The ferry back to Jeju, one night (maybe two) camping, one (maybe none) in a hostel before flying to Ulsan, meeting up with an old Couchsurfing friend, then a bus ride to Seoul, before I fly back home on the 13th.

In a few days, with some distance between me and the traiI, I will publish another blog entry. Talking about fake wood, the polluted coastline but definitely about plenty of positive impressions as well. So stay tuned!

Dondaesan to Daewangsan

Distance: 25km

Relentless low rumbling sound of the fishing boats throughout the night. When I wake and get up - it is still dark - the brightly lit boats scattered around Chuja are sparkling like stars in the sky. A special sight.

Luckily the forecast was right and the last clouds vanish with sunrise. The visibility is as good as never before. Jeju with Hallasan volcano is clearly visible. So are some smaller hills that I walked up during the last two weeks. 

Also mainland Korea is visible to the north. What a glorious morning.

Highly motivated, I start my walk. Down one hill, up the another, following a spectacular cliff walk. The cliff walk is not part of the official Jeju Olle Trail. A shame because it's the best stretch of trail I have hiked. Maybe a bit too exposed. However, being Korea, the trail is well maintained and secured. After taking a short rest at a pagoda, offering spectacular views and finish reading my book up there, I tackle the descent and eventually reach Hupo Beach. Once a campsite, now plastered with 'no camping' signs. Doesn't matter, it's still before lunch time and I plan to keep on going anyway. But not before a quick dip and wash in the cold, refreshing water. 

From there it's just a couple of steps to Daeseo, by far the largest settlement of Chuja. While I don't really enjoy the town, I hang around for a while, buying some food, visiting the Jeju Olle Trail information booth before I keep going. More up and down, some chitchat with locals until I reach my spot for the night. With another hour until sunset, I sit down, relax and enjoy the fantastic view. 

Eventually, the sun disappears behind the ocean. With the sun gone and the wind picking up, it gets uncomfortably cold rather quickly. I disappear as well, into my sleeping bag, looking at the fishing boats heading out into another night.

Sinyang Port to Dondaesan

Distance: 7km

First of all, I'm not even sure if it's worth to write a blog for these 7km. However, this trip is not only about the walking but also the things happening around.

I leave the hostel, navigating to the ferry terminal. Faster than anticipated, I find the ticket counter. The lady is flipping through my passport, saying "Visa?! Visa?!". All I can answer is "No Visa". I get sent to the supervisor, who, after a view calls, hands out the ticket. It would have surprised me, if I needed a visa indeed.

Anyways, after a short wait, I 'queue' as the sole foreigner in the foreigner line. The other 100 or so passengers are all Koreans. Amongst them, many sporting Jeju Olle branded hiking equipment.

Once on the boat, I find my way to the 3rd class cabin. Heated floor once more. However, I only sit/lay there for a wee while before venturing outside to explore the ferry, which is rocking and rolling in the open water. Slowly, Jeju with Hallasan is disappearing in the mist.

2 hours after leaving, the ferry arrives in Chuja. I step off the ferry into a completely different world - compared to Jeju City. Quite, sleepy. I like. 

I take my time, check the sailing times for my trip back. Either I go back south to Jeju or north to the mainland. Something to decide later. 

For the moment, I enjoy my time on the island. With plenty of time at hand (20km in 3 days), I stop right at the first beach. Lunch time! With the sun shining through the clouds every now and then, it's pleasantly warm, despite the wind. Yet, it's mostly grey in grey, everything is looking a bit dull and my camera stays in my pocket for nearly the entire day.

A bit more walking, resting and reading along a lovely coastal trail. And eventually, after a short but steep climb I arrive at Dondaesan Mountain. With the weather deteriorating quickly, everything is engulfed in clouds. It's unpleasant and a bit sad that there are no views at all. The good thing is, all weather forecasts I check predict good weather for tomorrow. Therefore, I decide to call it a day and keep my fingers crossed. It's been a nice day, nothing special. Mainly due to the weather. Yet, so far I like Chuja. And with the sun out, hopefully it will become a little adventure.

Sin-eom to Iho Tewoo

Distance: 24km

I spent the evening looking at the ocean, where ships with their bright lights try to attract the fish. 

The wind stopped, the clouds vanished and eventually, I fell asleep. 

An early start, the ships are returning to the port as I sip my coffee and shortly after head east along the coast, into a wonderful sunrise. My hiking spirit is high, even as I leave the coast and head Inland. For once, the visibility is good and I can see Hallasan as clear as never before. Eventually, I head to the coast again. A long way back, following a river. It's a bit of a fight but with a bit of music, I slowly but surely reach the coast. From there it's only a short walk to Iho Tewoo, where I started my little adventure 2 weeks earlier. As always, I feel a bit melancholic, I feel a bit sad but happy at the same time. Sad it's over, happy it's over. Well, not completely ovrt.

While I might have completed Jeju Island, Jeju Olle has still two more hikes up its sleeve. 

Two trails on Chuja Island, where I am headed tomorrow.

So I leave Iho Tewoo beach. I keep walking towards Jeju City along Jeju Olle Trail, like two weeks ago. But no worries. I won't do it again a second time. At least not in the foreseeable future. All I do is head to the last stamping station, which I passed a fortnight ago, but wasn't able to stamp because I didn't have the passport back then. 

With the stamp in my passport, I take the bus to Jeju City, check into my hostel and dive into a completely different world, visiting the vast Dongmun market, eating through all the food, celebrating a little bit for the little achievement.

Geumneung to Sin-eom

Distance: 22km

A stormy night with plenty of rain and wind. My tent was reasonably sheltered. Yet, with the noise of the palm trees getting hit by the wind, I had better nights.

It's still windy and unwelcoming in the morning. At least the rain has stopped. I take my time, drink my coffee and slowly leave the campground. The first steps are through dunes. A beautiful and, with the wind and high waves, nearly a bit dramatic. 

I see a blue lining at the horizon, hoping it would make it all the way to the coast - to me. However, the weather God has different plans and if remains cloudy and windy throughout the day. Layered up, it's not to cold and actually quite an enjoyable coastal walk. I stop at a coffee place, get an iced flat white (which was not the plan but I blame it on me for not speaking the language) and with the wonderful help of a good Korean friend of mine, who I know from Couchsurfing, I sort out my ferry trip to Chuja, to complete my Jeju Olle hike. It's still windy so I drop by at the Jeju Olle Information booth. The ladies volunteering there, are always so wonderful. No different this time. She gives me her own, self made lunch and a coffee. While I sip my hot beverage, a hikers walks in. With 40'000km on the Jeju Olle Trail, he apparently is holding the record. He walked the whole trail more than a 100 times. That's what I call dedication. And motivation for me.

I continue, lazy, idling. Following the spirit of the trail. I have a late lunch. The lovely lady is putting one dish after  the other in front of me. For less than 5 Swiss Francs. 

I thoroughly enjoy my meal and we'll fed I carry on until I reach my spot for the night. Overlooking the wild ocean, listening to the waves crashing into the rocks below me.

Gapado and Inland side trails (Trail 10-1 and 14-1)

Distance: 15km

A quiet night, an early start. On today's list are two side trails. Gapado Island and an inland trail leading to a tea plantation. They are part of Jeju Olle, but not really hike able in a thruhiking sense. So I will leave my tent and stuff here in Geumneung and go slack packing the two trails.

Before I leave, however, I relocate my tent. For my piece of mind. Away from the beach, back somewhere between the trees. Heavy winds are forecasted to develop around lunchtime. By doing so I will worry less about my tent and enjoy more my day away.

A bus takes me to Hamo, where I try hard to find the right ticket counter to get my boat ticket to Gapado. With my translator app translating all the signs I eventually make it to the counter. Right in time to catch the 08:40 ferry. My passport gets checked twice. Feels like Gapado is on a different continent. Maximum time on Gapado one is allowed to stay on the island is 2 hours. So not too much time to complete the 4km hike and the 1km back to the starting point. With 200 hundred other passengers I flood the little island. Shops and restaurants ready for us visitors. That's how being a cruise ship passenger must feel. 

I stamp my Olle Passport and off I am. Not many other hikers walking this Jeju Olle Trail today. So, quite surprisingly, sometimes I am completely on my own. 

Everything feels a bit rushed. Nevertheless, I enjoy my time on the island, which is flat as a pancake and besides tourism mainly used for growing barley.

Like for a cruise ship passenger, it's crucial to be on time for the departure. After stamping my passport once more at the finish, I hurry back, straight across the little island. Right in time for boarding. I find myself again with the same 200 passengers for the 10 minutes ride back.

The bus to the next trail is not leaving for another 30 minutes so I something very European and go for a coffee. What a positive surprise. Great atmosphere, great tasting cafe latte.

The inland trail couldn't be more different than Gapado. Once I leave the tea museum behind, it's just me and the birds. A very quiet trail. The sky has become cloudy, the wind stronger. With my light Day pack, I make swift progress. Every now and then I even run a bit. In no time, I am at the end of the trail. Right in time for the bus taking me back to Geumneung. It's a public holiday here as well. Not Easter, I think. Anyway, all busses are free, which is a nice little extra. 

Back at the beach, I go for a early dinner, grab some snacks and my book. I'm reading and snacking at the beach until the rain starts and I retreat to my tent. It's around 17:00. With no plans to leave my tent, I have plenty of time to write my blog and plan for the next couple of days.

Chagwido Port to Geumnung

Distance: 33km

A glorious sunrise over Hallasan to the east, a great view out over the water to the west. A fantastic start into my day as I follow the coast for a bit. What a great start.

Sooner than later, I turn inland. It's where things get annoying. The trail goes all over the place, turns to the left, to the right and I hardly make any progress. It's mostly road walk through farmland. The views very monotonous. My patience is getting challenged today. Despite not having any expectations on this trip whatsoever. At one point I am tempted to just cut across and head back to the coast. But no, I came so far, I complete this thing. So I carry on. At the most inland point, in I climb a mountain, which is nice, have lunch shortly after, which is nice as well before doing the same sh** again on the way back to the coast.

Once there, I feel depleted. Yet, I have to continue. I walk through a cactus park (after having walked through a chair park earlier today), follow the coast along an attractive stretch of the trail. However, I can't really enjoy. All I want to do is reach the campground. Which I eventually do. It's open, some tents but not too crowded. With the last motivation I can find, I pitch my tent, get some food before I sit down and read my book.

Today was the first day I didn't really enjoy. While I appreciate the work the locals put into Jeju Olle Trail, it wasn't an attractive stretch at all. Too much inland without too much to see. Additionally, it was yet another long day, which probably didn't help.

Therefore, I will take it slowly the next couple of days, trying to find my motivation again.

Alteurreu Airfield to Chagwido Port

Distance: 40km

Once again, the birds make for a wonderful morning. Drinking my coffee to the sound of the birds, makes it taste even better. 

I cross the defunct airfield and therefore am quite surprised to see a powered paraglider firing up it's noisy engine for a short flight. With a long day ahead of me, I do not wait for it to depart but rather continue through the somewhat depressing town of Hamo. It's a comparably remote stretch that follows so I buy some Kimbap (a triangle shaped rice dish with all kind of fillings) that should keep me going.

It's raining as I leave town, climb a mountain, walk through forests. Not a persistent rain, no wind, no cold. Manageable. Nevertheless, the roads are looking like it has been pouring down for hours. No idea how they look like in the rainy season.

I can smell it in the air. It's not a pleasant smell so early in the morning: It's harvesting season for cabbage and onions.

In fact, guest workers from India, Pakistan or maybe Bangladesh are the only people I see this morning. A very solitary walk. 

This changes as I reach the coffee place marking the end of trail 11 and the start of trail 12. Plenty of hikers in thete. After a well needed orange juice and an orange pastry, I continue. The rain stopped as I make my way to the coast and follow it, now also meeting some fellow hikers and locals. 

After a quick dinner it's time to set up camp as it's already getting dark. Another long day comes to an end. Despite the rain in the morning and the smell of onions, overall another enjoyable day on Jeju.

Daepyeong Port to Alteurreu Airfield 

Distance: 26km

Sleeping close to the Ocean, with the waves having a calming effect on me, sleep is usually good. No difference tonight - at least until the wind came and woke me up at around 3. The sleep wouldn't come back anymore.

Still, reasonably rested, I start my walk, climbing Gunsan mountain. Some lovely trails and just me, myself and I. Only at the top I meet a older man, working in the fire lookout tower up there. Today however, there's not much to observe. The mountain is engulfed in clouds, visibility zero. Therefore, I do not spend too much time up there, heading back down and back to the coast. As I walk through am orange plantation, the sun comes out and once back at the coast, the temperature feels like summer. 

In a secluded bay, I decide to go for a quick swim. A wise, well maybe lucky decision. The next beach is crawling with tourists. Crazy how quickly it changes. 

The trail stays busy for the next couple of kilometers along a fantastic stretch of coast until I pass a sign that I am now becoming doing 'dark tourism'. Doesn't seem to be a thing here and all of a sudden it's just me and some Jeju Olle hikers again. A lovely bunch of people.

I enjoy the quiet and decide to call it a day. 

Tomorrow, my plan initially was to do hike 11.1 on Gapado island. The weather doesn't look too inviting though. So most probably, I will skip Gapado island for the moment and do in a couple of days once the weather plays along. But I will decide tomorrow. 

Seongcheon to Daepyeong Port

Distance: 11km

Being waken by singing birds is always a great way to start into a day. A planned, short day. After yesterday's 45 kilometers, I feel a bit exhausted. Furthermore, rain is expected from mid-morning, lasting throughout the day.

After my compulsory cup of instant coffee I head off. The first hour is throu Jungmun Beach Resort. A massive hotel complex, deserted on this early Monday morning. It feels weird, fake. Walking past the honeymooners' gate, chocolate land and the Teddy Bear museum is not exactly enjoyable. Neither is the road walk taking me around the golf course. 

Eventually, I leave the road, follow a river back to the coast. Cherry blossom season is just about to take off. The people here seem to go crazy for this season. And to be honest, they infected me a bit with their enthusiasm. 

Back at the coast, I take it slowly. Frequent stops to enjoy the views and once I stumble across a foot spa coffee place, I obviously have to check it out. 

With my feet in a foot bath tub, the smell of eucalyptus oil in my nose, Juju yuzu tea and a chocolate pastry in front of me, reading my book, overlooking the ocean, life can't get much better. 

Only when my feet are all wrinkly I leave, heading straight for a late lunch or early dinner. Like most of the time, it's just me in these mom and pop restaurants, enjoying another great dish.

While having my feet wellness and feed, it started raining heavily. I head to a nearby pagoda, where I pitch my tent. With no motivation to leave my tent, I spend the afternoon looking at the ocean, reading my book and just relaxing.

Seogwipo to Seongcheon

Distance: 45km (15km running)

A real bed for a change. To be honest, though, the sleep is not much different than in the tent. While the room is much more quite, the lack of familiarity (which I have in my tent) leads to a light sleep nonetheless.

Still, I get some decent rest and by six I am on the trail again. Running. The somewhat chaotic layout of the trail (Trail 7 and 7.1), won't allow a continuous thru hike. So I run trail 7.1. A different experience which turns out to be quite a wonderful one. 

Soon after starting my run, I leave the city during dawn and pass through farmland and citrus plantations before climbing Gogeunsan mountain. A steep climb up. Eventually, I reach the top with sweeping views of Hallasan. I take my time, enjoy the view and eventually run down the mountain towards the Seogwipo football stadium. It's a pleasant mix of roads, grassy trails and hiking trails (most of them covered with a carpet like cover. Like the majority of the hiking trails here. Something, which I still have to get used to. Like endless fake-wood-fences. I will write about this another time).

At the stadium, I catch a bus back to the hostel, where I shower, eat breakfast, check out and hit the trail again. Direction football stadium. This time along the coast. Being a sunny Sunday, I am not the only one out and about. I chitchat with other hikers every now and then but mainly hike by myself. While the first couple of kilometers are easy going, it's getting harder with every minute. I miss running. In general, my run this morning reminded me of home. The 'real' outdoors, the mountains, the solitude. Anyways, sometimes it's good to get out of the comfort zone, experiencing new things.

At the stadium, I have to hike my own hike to the beginning of trail 8. No markings. It's when I notice how much the markings help. Without them, navigation is challenging. 

Eventually, I make it to the trail head, follow it for a while until I find a quiet park for the night. 

Another long day. A bit too long. Tomorrow, I will take it slow. Embracing, what the Olle Trail stands for: slow idling.

Namwon to Seogwipo

Distance: 27km

No wind, a flat surface and, after all the food that I ate, feeling nice and warm in my sleeping bag. Perfect ingredients for a good sleep. Yet, I wake up every now and then and never really fall into a deep sleep.

Anyways, after saying goodbye to Kim and her husband, I start my day feeling quite okay. Progress is slow though. The views are fantastic and I stop numerous time to take photos, read my book, a quick swim or just enjoy the view. Aside from some touristy hotspots, I often find myself completely alone. A new, welcome feeling on Jeju. 

Eventually, I need to push myself a little bit to get to Seogwipo. It's hot, hazy and the lack of sleep doesn't help either. Some ice cream and Hallabongs help me going. 

Once more, I meet many friendly Koreans along the way, a smiley, a wave or stopping for a little chat. Walking here hardly gets boring.

Trail number 6 is a bit of an up and down. Nothing too strenuous. Nevertheless, I am soaked as I walk through Seogwipo. 

Needles to say: I am relieved when I finally check into my hostel. As a thru hiker, I know the drill:

Straight into the shower, changing into whatever clean clothes I have (rain pants and a shirt in my case), getting the laundry going and then head out for some food.

Being Saturday night, the city is packed with people. Right next to the hostel, I find a quiet noodle place. 

A bit reluctant, I head to the marked to hunt for some dessert. It's crawling with people and I soon have to admit it's not my habitat. With something sweet in my pocket, I had back to the hotel. It's not like I will be bored there since I have to plan my coming days.

Pyoseon to Namwon

Distance: 18km

A long story/day short: always expect the unexpected.

So I am brushing my teeth, getting ready for a day out on the trail, as a woman, who is camping next "door" is approaching me and invites me for a Korean breakfast in front of her and her husband's tent. Noodles, rice, kimchi. A lot to digest for my westerner stomach so early in the morning.

Anyways, I follow yet another an invitation for a "quick" touristy tiki tour inland with their car. An interesting experience for sure. But an experience I highly appreciate as it gives me a wonderful little insight on Korean culture.

Time flies and eventually I have to push them a little bit to take me back to the trail. They seem to enjoy my company!

It's mid-afternoon, still hot, but I am glad to be back on the trail, away from the hustle and bustle. On a trail, which I enjoy a lot. Nice people a long the way, lovely stretches through forest, over rocky beaches and inland through citrus plantations.

Kim and her husband warned me that they would be stalking me this afternoon. And sure enough they pass me twice in their car, always giving me a friendly wave.

As the sun is setting, I approach Namwon, where me and Kim agreed to have dinner. Well, it turns out to be a feast. 

Not often do I feel completely full. But today was one of these days. 

We finish this very intense day with some (unsuccessful) fishing and a cup of rice wine before I crawl into my sleeping bag.

Biyangdo to Pyoseon

Distance: 42km

Overnight, the northerlies turned into westerlies. The imprivised rockwall wasn't as effective anymore. Yet, it was blocking the wind enough to leave the tent pitched.

Needless to say: with the tent rocking in the wind, my sleep was far from a good one.

Anyways, the show must go on and with sunrise I start into my hiking day. Udo feels deserted. It mainly caters day trippers and with the first ferry not arriving until 08:15, I enjoy the peace and quiet. No electric, pink tuktuks with cat ears on the roof buzzing past left and right. 

The climb up towards the Udo lighthouse offers spectacular views of the island, also the descent on the other side, leading through a miniature lighthouse landscape is highly interesting. As I get closer to the port, visitors spill out of the ferry. It's the moment I say to myself, let's go. I fill in a departure card, show my passport and off I am back on the ferry to Jeju. This time outside, enjoying the fantastic spring weather.

As I get off the ferry, the line to get to Udo is ridiculously long. More than happy with my decision to camp on the island and swim against the flow, I continue my walk. Speaking of swimming: for the first time since I've been on the island I go for a quick, refreshing swim. A great feeling.

Back on the trail, I buy some Hallabong. Their taste is growing on me. 

The following 15 or so kilometers are inland. With the small exception of a short part over Daesusanbong, a hill, trail number 2 is rather underwhelming. It's hot and the walk through the farmland a bit depressing. Memories from my E1 hike, skirting around Milan, pop up. Very similar. Eventually, the coast is insight again. With nearly 30 kilometers done, my feet and legs start feeling tired. Stil... After a rather short day yesterday, I feel like keep on going. 

With some music and the view of the coast, time is passing quickly. It's already 17:00 and I have still 10 kilometers ahead of me. However, I really need a feed. My energy level is getting low. 

Right next to the mid-route stamping post is a little restaurant. The lovely lady serves me a massive menu. 

Eating an eel with chopsticks is changing but eventually I figure it out and soon after, am on my way again. With my hiking spirit high again, I walk into the night. Always a magical but also slightly eerie experience. With each step the lights of Pyoseon are growing bigger until I reach the city. 

They have a spot designated for tents. I don't mess around and pitch my tent at the first best place. 

Tired but also with that special, satisfying feeling after a long day, I get ready for a hopefully good night's sleep.

Jondal to Biyangdo

Distance: 20km

A rainy night. And a windy night. By 06:30 the wind becomes so strong that I begin to worry a bit about my tent. While I boil the water for my coffee, I pack my stuff. Over the years, I have become rather efficient.

I drink my coffee behind a massive golden monument of carrot, protected from the wind and rain. Eventually, I hit the trail, which initially loops around inland, to the official starting point of the Olle Trail. It's wet as I walk through the forest up a hill. The bird are apparently enjoying it and are singing loudly. My hiking spirit is high and I thoroughly enjoy my time. 

Back at the coast, the wind driving the rain straight into my face dampens the mood a bit. But knowing that the weather is supposed to improve keeps me going.

After an early lunch, I catch the ferry to Udo. An island next to Jeju. It's raining when I step on board. Warming up on the heated floor (there are no seats) feels great. 15 minutes later, I get off the ferry and step on a sunny Udo. What a dramatic change of the weather.

Full of motivation I continue the trail, enjoy a peanut ice cream with Udo peanuts before I cross the bridge to Biyangdo, yet another island and my campsite for the night. It's windy but thanks to some stone walls possible to pitch my tent. There are some other people camping at this truly spectacular spot. 

The atmosphere is great and with my tent neighbour Jun, I enjoy a noodle dinner while watching sunset.

Gimnyeoung Beach to Jondal

Distance: 27km

After a good night's sleep, I wake up to a peculiar sky. It looks like rain. The air smells like rain.

Yet, I get up, pack my tent, drink my coffee and hit the trail. A trail with an attractive beginning - thru dunes and over volcanic rock formations. Eventually, it's back to take usual road walk. Grey sky and also less colors along the trail compared to yesterday. In fact, everything looks slightly grim. The  Wind in my face and the noisy wind turbines don't help. At least it doesn't rain. And once I approach first stamping post, the weather and with it my mood also improve. 

Stamping my Olle Passport is oddly satisfying. Such a simple thing but such a wonderful idea. 3 stamping posts per route. At the beginning, halfway and at the end. Completing a rout and filling the page gives a feeling of accomplishment. Moreover, there is always a short description of the route in the passport. Interesting and helpful - today it was spot on.

I keep on going. At the end of the route, I once more stamp my passport and have a lovely chat with the lady at the Jeju Olle Trail Information Center. Another fantastic thing, located at the trail terminus/head. She offers me a banana juice and soon after, I am on my way again. 

Just a couple of minutes later, I meet Mr. Cho from Seoul. A section walker. Together we walk most of the remaining 10 kilometers of Route 21, during which I learn plenty of interesting stuff about the island. After climbing a 410m high hill, it's time to say goodbye. Another great trail experience. I'm starving and head straight for a noodle restaurant. 

Well fed, I look for a place to pitch my tent. The sky turned dark again and the wind makes being outside uncomfortable. So I am not to picky and pitch my tent just south of Jondal behind some bushes, overlooking Udo. The island I am heading to tomorrow.

I finish my day with an OSM bar, kindly safeguarded and gifted by Maria. Now, typing these lines, the rain finally started. The forecast is not looking promising. At least until tomorrow afternoon. Can't change the weather. I just hope I can stamp my passport despite the rain.

Gwangot to Gimnyeoung Beach

Distance: 20km

It's a chilly night, nonetheless, I sleep better than the previous nights and wake up to sunrise. The sun is warming me up quickly and before I have even fixed my coffee, I feel quite comfortable.

I'm in no hurry to leave. When I eventually do, I more or less bump straight into a lady walking her dog. She invites me to her home to freshen myself up. An offer I gladly accept. A few minutes later, I sit in their kitchen, talking to her husband, eating my first Hallabong (a Jeju citrus fruit). Sweet, yet a bit sour. I love the taste. An egg and tea follow, before I have a quick wash and hit the trail again. What a wonderful start into my day. 

The sun is shining as the trail number 19, which I am following today, passes a busy beach town, a quite fishing village and eventually heads inland through forest. Some nice, proper hiking trail without anyone else around. Out of the forest, I pass through farmland. It's also where I hit my daily low. It's early afternoon, I am hungry and already miss the sea.

Eventually, I am back at the coastline. The ending point of Trail 19. Right next to it, a restaurant. Perfect!

As usual, the menu is only in Korean. What eventually ends up on my plate always a surprise. Today it is a fried Mackerel with many side dishes. Super tasty and very affordable. For the 6 Swiss Francs I paid, I wouldn't even get a coffe and croissant back home. 

Anyway, after I bravely tried to eat the fish with chopsticks (but eventually had to surrender), I once more hit the trail. With plenty of energy, the last few kilometers to the campground were easy going. 

Earlier than I anticipated, I pitch my tent on a massive open field with fantastic views of the ocean. 

I grab my book and some snacks at the nearby Seven-Eleven and settle in for a cozy evening.

Iho Tewoo Beach to Gwangot

Distance: 30km

After an uneventful flight, without any service whatsoever, the aircraft slams down hard on Jeju's runway. At least 15 minutes ahead of schedule.

Before I headed to Iho Tewoo Beach, I grabbed a leaflet from the Jeju Olle Trail Information desk at the airport (yes, there is one, right where you leave baggage claim) and headed straight for the beach, which I reached right in time for a great sunset view. The campground wasn't really there anymore, unfortunately. Just a small patch of grass behind some camper vans, which, I think, is intended for tents. 

Still a bit jetlagged the night is rather restless. Therefore, I'm not too unhappy to hit the trail in the morning. With the sea to my left, the Hallasan vulcano to my right, navigation isn't particularly difficult. Also the marking of the trail is outstanding. If I am not somewhere completely else with my thoughts, getting lost is nearly impossible. 

I watch the aircraft landing and departing, observing the locals doing their walks and runs. 

Faster than I thought I get lucky and find a screw top gas canister. With the Jeju Olle Trail Passport, which I pick up shortly after, I have everything I need.

So I carry on, leaving the airport and the big city behind. However, I am never far away from civilization.

As I walk, I bump into several other hikers. Even groups. At the half way point of Trail 18, I meet a so-called hiking mate. One of many Olle Trail volunteers, offering people to join them for a walk. She invites me as well to join (which I happily accept) and before we start, I get offered sandwiches, scones and a rice juice. 

Well fed, me, the volunteer an Italian and some Japanese are on the way again. It's interesting to get some local knowledge along the way. 

At the end of Trail 18, I get invited for another tea. Then the guide and the others go their own way. Back to their home or hotel. I carry on for an hour along Trail 19. The sun already low on the horizon, I climb up a little hill with a pagoda on top. The view of the sunset is lovely and since the weather is nice, I decide to cowboy camp right there.

Tired but happy how the day turned out and therefore curious what the next days will bring.

...not necessarily because of the weather (which is, with 13°C and plenty of sunshine, pleasant here in Seoul and more or less exactly the same as when I left Zürich) but it's mostly due to cultural things. The language barrier, transportation, the food, the hustle and bustle of a massive city in general. Little things - but they added up. So, as I am typing these lines (once again from the airport, waiting for my flight), without even having really started, I am actually feeling a bit exhausted alread. In fact I am longing to leave for Jeju, starting my hike tomorrow morning.

Despite the acclimation (which to be fair was rather short), and having read through plenty of blogs and the trail notes, it's still a hike into the unknown. Maybe another reason why I can't wait to start and finally see how everything goes. 

Not much more I can do other than waiting for the boarding call for Flight TW721 to Jeju. A roughly 1 hour flight south. 

This will be my last pre hiking blog entry. Tomorrow afternoon, after a long day on the trail, hopefully I will have lots of interesting stuff to report.

A couple of busy weeks later, I am now sitting on seat 36A, on board a Lufthansa A350. Still docked at Gate Z50. It's ridiculously hot inside, making it impossible to cool down after a sprint from my delayed flight from Zurich to the gate to my connecting flight. 

Nonetheless, I am relieved to finally be on my way. Away from the snow, the mountains the daily grind. 

The last few days, I really had to pull myself together, concentrating on the details, finishing up my planing. As good as I can at least. Part of thru hiking is always dealing with the unknown. A thing which, initially always brothers me a bit, but eventually adds to the, at least for me, satisfying nature of these longish hikes. 

Since I have an 11 hour flight ahead of me (taking me south of Russia and north of Iran through a narrow corridor over  Azerbaijan) and a growing delay due to some faulty/missing technical documents, I can give a quick outline of how my next couple of days will look like (if we finally become airborne):

Arriving in Seoul Incheon at around lunch time (hopefully), I will take a train to Gimpo, the airport my flight to Jeju leaves the next day (on the 21st). I booked my self into a hostel, right next to the airport. Depending on when I arrive, I will have a walk around the neighborhood, acclimate myself a little bit, changing money, activating my sim card. The usual stuff.

On the 21st, my flight to Jeju leaves mid-afternoon. Once on ground, I walk straight to Iho Tewoo Beach. Roughly 4 kilometers from the terminal. A public campsite, located halfway into Route 17 of the Olle Trail. Perfect for a first night on Jeju Island. From then on all I have to do is following the markers. Somewhere along the way, I might get lucky and find some camping gas and a Jeju Olle Passport. A passport shaped booklet, that you can complete by stamping at the starting, halfway and finishing point of each of the routes. While not "required", it's still a cool thing to do I think. And a great souvenir.

Until the passport is full, I still have a bit of walking ahead of me. 437 kilometers to be precise. But for now, all I can do is sit back, relax and trying to enjoy my flight, which, by now, finally made it into the air.

My flight is leaving on March, 19th. From Zurich to Seoul via Frankfurt. One night Seoul and then onwards to Jeju. With T'way. An airline completely unknown to me. My passport is ready. My hiking equipment... Well not yet. I don't like packing. But eventually, I'll have to do it. But there is still time.

It's early March, I am at work, writing these lines. Outside it's snowing, spring seems far, far away. Even more so, I am looking forward to hiking the Jeju Olle Trail. Escaping from the cold, the snow, the daily grind and diving into a completely different world. Trail life. For the first time in Asia. While technically nothing spectacular, I'm extremely excited nonetheless. Despite my planning, reading blogs, looking at photos, I am still not sure yet what is awaiting me. All I can do for now is wait and see and revel in anticipation.