Day 17: Like Stars

Dondaesan to Daewangsan

Distance: 25km

Relentless low rumbling sound of the fishing boats throughout the night. When I wake and get up - it is still dark - the brightly lit boats scattered around Chuja are sparkling like stars in the sky. A special sight.

Luckily the forecast was right and the last clouds vanish with sunrise. The visibility is as good as never before. Jeju with Hallasan volcano is clearly visible. So are some smaller hills that I walked up during the last two weeks. 

Also mainland Korea is visible to the north. What a glorious morning.

Highly motivated, I start my walk. Down one hill, up the another, following a spectacular cliff walk. The cliff walk is not part of the official Jeju Olle Trail. A shame because it's the best stretch of trail I have hiked. Maybe a bit too exposed. However, being Korea, the trail is well maintained and secured. After taking a short rest at a pagoda, offering spectacular views and finish reading my book up there, I tackle the descent and eventually reach Hupo Beach. Once a campsite, now plastered with 'no camping' signs. Doesn't matter, it's still before lunch time and I plan to keep on going anyway. But not before a quick dip and wash in the cold, refreshing water. 

From there it's just a couple of steps to Daeseo, by far the largest settlement of Chuja. While I don't really enjoy the town, I hang around for a while, buying some food, visiting the Jeju Olle Trail information booth before I keep going. More up and down, some chitchat with locals until I reach my spot for the night. With another hour until sunset, I sit down, relax and enjoy the fantastic view. 

Eventually, the sun disappears behind the ocean. With the sun gone and the wind picking up, it gets uncomfortably cold rather quickly. I disappear as well, into my sleeping bag, looking at the fishing boats heading out into another night.