Day 13: Contrasts

Gapado and Inland side trails (Trail 10-1 and 14-1)

Distance: 15km


A quiet night, an early start. On today's list are two side trails. Gapado Island and an inland trail leading to a tea plantation. They are part of Jeju Olle, but not really hike able in a thruhiking sense. So I will leave my tent and stuff here in Geumneung and go slack packing the two trails.

Before I leave, however, I relocate my tent. For my piece of mind. Away from the beach, back somewhere between the trees. Heavy winds are forecasted to develop around lunchtime. By doing so I will worry less about my tent and enjoy more my day away.


A bus takes me to Hamo, where I try hard to find the right ticket counter to get my boat ticket to Gapado. With my translator app translating all the signs I eventually make it to the counter. Right in time to catch the 08:40 ferry. My passport gets checked twice. Feels like Gapado is on a different continent. Maximum time on Gapado one is allowed to stay on the island is 2 hours. So not too much time to complete the 4km hike and the 1km back to the starting point. With 200 hundred other passengers I flood the little island. Shops and restaurants ready for us visitors. That's how being a cruise ship passenger must feel. 

I stamp my Olle Passport and off I am. Not many other hikers walking this Jeju Olle Trail today. So, quite surprisingly, sometimes I am completely on my own. 

Everything feels a bit rushed. Nevertheless, I enjoy my time on the island, which is flat as a pancake and besides tourism mainly used for growing barley.

Like for a cruise ship passenger, it's crucial to be on time for the departure. After stamping my passport once more at the finish, I hurry back, straight across the little island. Right in time for boarding. I find myself again with the same 200 passengers for the 10 minutes ride back.


The bus to the next trail is not leaving for another 30 minutes so I something very European and go for a coffee. What a positive surprise. Great atmosphere, great tasting cafe latte.


The inland trail couldn't be more different than Gapado. Once I leave the tea museum behind, it's just me and the birds. A very quiet trail. The sky has become cloudy, the wind stronger. With my light Day pack, I make swift progress. Every now and then I even run a bit. In no time, I am at the end of the trail. Right in time for the bus taking me back to Geumneung. It's a public holiday here as well. Not Easter, I think. Anyway, all busses are free, which is a nice little extra. 

Back at the beach, I go for a early dinner, grab some snacks and my book. I'm reading and snacking at the beach until the rain starts and I retreat to my tent. It's around 17:00. With no plans to leave my tent, I have plenty of time to write my blog and plan for the next couple of days.


The island of barley
The island of barley
Plenty of...
Plenty of...
... flowers
... flowers
...and bicycles
...and bicycles
Some chairs
Some chairs
Koreans in the wild
Koreans in the wild
Something European
Something European
Tea!
Tea!
Fast like the wind - slack packing
Fast like the wind - slack packing
Back at the beach
Back at the beach
Ready for the rain and wind
Ready for the rain and wind

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Comments: 2
  • #1

    George Mills (Saturday, 04 April 2026 00:47)

    A different type of day. Refreshing for you. The coloured chairs are surprising. In NZ they would be flogged.

  • #2

    Rob Firmin (Sunday, 05 April 2026 06:09)

    Kia ora ... what do the people on the island call themselves? Are they actually Korean? Or are they a sub culture of Korea assimilated into the Korean nation?

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